BATTERY ISOLATOR. Is it possible to install?

[snahmi]

Hello,
My beloved ST3 will be now winterized and generally will be (from now on) stored to be used for one or two long trips a year.

I generally use a battery tender, but I will probably have to move the bike to a storage facility that has no mains socket for the tender (for fire hazard/security reasons)

We all know that is is almost impossible to EASILY access the ST3 battery without removing the RH side fairing.
Also, I do not want to cut the side fairing (drill a hole) in order to access the battery terminal.

The question is:

Is it possible to install a battery kill switch to a place that is easily accessed? (e.g under the seat)
I am looking forward to installing -if it is possible- a marine grade switch under the seat.
Something like that:
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.u...49/category/30

Will the additional positive (red) cabling that will lead to and return from the switch cause problems to my electrical/charging system?
What cable gauge shall I prefer (european/metric)?

Thanks,
Sam

[Stick]

Nice idea. But I would not recommend placing under the seat. You'd be running additional UNFUSED heavy cable up to that area AND BACK (can U say fire?)!

If I were to attempt this, I would mount that switch between the radiator and the battery, in the void that you can access with one hand, reaching thru the air conveyer (the air duct). This way, you'd have a very short cable to deal with, and hopefully use the factory cable up to the load side of the switch.

Conversely, I did modify the air conveyer a bit to access the + terminal on my older ST2. Keep in mind that this battery was a HUGE wet cell battery, and the mod took place very close to the silver-painted fairing. On the newer bikes, with AGM battery, the + post is way to the inside of the battery box, and the conveyer would be needed to be modified in that area. I'm considering doing this to my 2003, because sometimes you just NEED to get to that battery post (screwdriver, jumper wire, big charger, etc.), and I hate to remove the plastics for this reason. It's only the air duct that would need cutting. I would recommend reconsidering this approach.

If you insist on the switch, use at least a #6 awg wire. Even a starter wire from an auto will work. These are readily available in WallyMart, or auto part stores over here in the USA. Also, welding cable works well, since it's got rugged insulation, and fine stranded wires for flexibility.

[Gearbox]

Why not just simply remove the RH fairing after placing in storage , leave the panel;s behind and just take the battery with you over winter.
The new fairing style is a lot easier to do this with than the old as you do not need to remove the top fairing.

[snahmi]

@ stick: Thanks for your answer.

As I understand, I will have to find a short piece of cable from a starter cable, I will conect it directly to the positive side of the battery, lead it to the first input of the isolation switch (so that the switch gets 12v current) , and then connect the original battery cabling to the second (output) post of the isolator switch . Right??

The questions are:
1 will this setup be safe concerning rain/moisture? Will the place where you tell me to install the switch be dry? (This is why I thought to install under the seat, but your comments were absolutely logical and right)

2 I have a lot of accessories installed on my st3, following advice and info from this forum. (additional fan, additional 12v socket, battery tender harness etc) . These were installed with eylets on the (+) side of the battery.
Are these going to be installed as well on the second (output) post of the isolator switch?

3 what is the Amperage + Wattage specs that the switch has to have in order to withstand the needs of the ST3 + the additional accessories?


@gearbox: the reason that I want an easy isolation of the battery without having to remove the panels is that every time I remove the panels, some of the well nuts have to be replaced + that the last time i removed the fairing, I dropped a piece (murphys' law) ......


Thank you all for the help.
Any answers would be really appreciated!!


Sam

[latte committee]

In terms of actually isolating the battery, it doesn't matter which side ( + / - ) that you "disconnect".

Given that many accessories are wired directly to the positive terminal, it gets pretty congested in that area.

I'd be isolating the negative side, by simply installing a Master Switch between the negative terminal and earth.

I'd mount the switch in the black plastic insert to the RHS fairing panel.
I'd get a black switch so that it blended into the existing panel.
This would require only minor re-routing of cable, and minimal additional cable.

Should be an easily done modification.

Cheers
TD

[snahmi]

Hello Trevor!!
Thank you so much for your reply.

I think that your idea gives the solution to what I want to do

The only thing is, that -if I mount the switch (actually) ON the RH panel- I will have difficulties every time the panel has to be removed and put away from the bike. (i.e. service etc.)

Isn't there any other safe place to hide such a switch, that provides easy access but also is safe from the elements (road spray, rain ...)

Thanks again,
Sam

[Stick]

I like Trevor's idea, too. I see that the switch you linked to is rated at 100A. That should be fine. Also note that it's a "marine" switch, so I would think that it's rated to hold up in the elements.

[MarkST]

I'm no electrician but I'm thinking that if the bike is alarmed, you may have problems in that the alarm will just go off as soon as you isolate the battery, and will not stop until the alarm backup battery goes flat.

[snahmi]

@ markST : I have the alarm indeed. I never tried to isolate the battery so I do not know how it will react. It is the Ducati alarm (spyball brand) .
I really do not know if it "arms" when the battery is disconnected. Would'nt that create many problems durng servicing, when many times the battery is disconected for days/hours?

Thanks,
Sam

[stryder]

Can't you just disconnect the ground wire on the engine? It might be a pita the first time, but then you could replace the allen key bolt with a hex head bolt for easy removal after that.