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Old Nov 21st, 2011, 5:38 pm   #1 (permalink)
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Sprocket and Chain swap by a novice

This is something I have never done on a modern bike so I decided it was time to try it. I read the threads on the forum for advice so armed with that knowledge I started the project.

Ordered the chain and sprocket combo from Sprocketcenter.com along with a rivet masher (214.00 + 44.00). I ordered the chain breaker from Bikebandit (45.00). I went with the 14 tooth and 43 tooth combo thinking that was what I had on the bike. Also bought a pipe to use as a cheater on my 1/2 breaker bar.

Time to go to work.
First lets get that pesky front sprocket off. Good luck with that.

With my wife standing on the rear brake I still couldn't get the nut to break loose. Okay, time to take the advice on the forum and buy an impact wrench. Harbor Freight and 50.00 later I have an electric wrench capable of 210 pounds of torque. The nut came off so easy I though maybe it twisted off.

Used my dremel drill to grind off the top of the rivets on the master link. Then applied the chain breaker. Promptly broke the chain breaker. WTF

So I just used the dremel to cut the chain in half. I think that was faster than grinding + chain breaker.

Rear wheel off to remove the sprocket. Uh oh.

It was a 42 tooth sprocket. Now my gearing will be lower than before. I hope it is not a problem, if so, I know how to change it now.

Put it all back together and used the rivet smasher from sprocketcenter. It has a trench along the inside for the rivet heads. So I tightened it down until
it was flush with the base. Wasn't hard to do so I'm a little concerned if it did the job correctly. This is what it looks like.



If it doesn't look right to you, please let me know.

If everything works then I feel confident that I can do this again.

Must haves on this job. Impact wrench, and dremel drill, rivet smasher.
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Old Nov 21st, 2011, 5:45 pm   #2 (permalink)
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Looks good to me Rick. A good breaker and press is worth the money. I got the DID one for close to $100 but it's built like a tank.

Are you really running 14/43? In Texas?
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Old Nov 21st, 2011, 6:11 pm   #3 (permalink)
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I will be now (14/43) like it or not. If it stinks, I'll bite the bullet and order another 42 for the rear.
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Old Nov 21st, 2011, 6:26 pm   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickmillertx View Post
I will be now (14/43) like it or not. If it stinks, I'll bite the bullet and order another 42 for the rear.
That one tooth on the rear will be barely noticeable. But with a 14 front that's pretty steep for the flatlands
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Old Nov 21st, 2011, 7:06 pm   #5 (permalink)
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Mike, I've been running 14/42 for a couple of years and I really like that. Hopefully the 43 will not make a noticeable difference. My calculations say it will be 4750 rpm at 70.
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Old Nov 21st, 2011, 8:55 pm   #6 (permalink)
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Looks pretty good Rick. Just be sure that the riveted link can freely move around the pivot point and you're good to go!
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Old Nov 21st, 2011, 9:36 pm   #7 (permalink)
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Did the chain manufacturer not give a specification for determining how far to press the riveted link?
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Old Nov 21st, 2011, 11:02 pm   #8 (permalink)
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The link is free for movement. I was afraid of making it too tight, but the tool is supposed to eliminate that from happening. The chain came with no specs. or instructions.

I just watched videos on youtube for direction on how to do the job.
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Old Nov 21st, 2011, 11:37 pm   #9 (permalink)
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I installed an EK MVXZ chain on my VFR. It came with instructions for pressing the ends until the mushrooming reached a specific minimum diameter.

I liked that, it took the guess work out.
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Old Nov 22nd, 2011, 9:27 am   #10 (permalink)
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I did the same thing as you rickmiller...watched youtube vids and poked around the board. My chain links look pretty much exactly like yours and my chain has been fine for a 1000+ mile trip.
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