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Old Oct 31st, 2011, 9:48 am   #1 (permalink)
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7 years later: 2005 ST3

As I put my bike into storage for the 7th time, I thought I'd reflect a little on the past 7 years ownership experience.

I purchased my 2005 ST3 new, still in the crate, 7 seasons ago. For those of you lucky enough to not know what a season is, it’s approx 7out of 12 months. So for me, that means out of approx 84 months of ownership, I’ve had the bike on the road approximately 49 of them. Yes, that sucks, and that’s why I need a bike that provides a very enjoyable ownership experience, and the ST3 has filled the prescription very nicely indeed in more ways than 1. Here’s a brief report on that experience:

Pros:

Joining Ducati ms. A great place to learn about Ducati bikes and ownership experiences and where the good guys who truly like to share and help still out number the not so good guys who are here to prove they are smarter than the rest.

Pride of ownership. Nothing before has kept me as happy as my Ducati has in terms of feeling “good” about owning it. When I get off the bike after a nice ride, I can look at it and still feel the same passion I felt for it when it was new. I hope if not expect this will not diminish.

Reliability. Instrument panel replaced under warranty 2 times, second was dealer’s fault. *That was my only warranty claim.*

I’ve pushed my bike home twice. The first time from about 8 blocks away, the second time from about 1.5 miles out. The first time was when a fuel line popped off the filter. The second time was because I thought I fixed it. Otherwise, no major repairs required, other than the usual suspects, ie repaired the crispy VR connector, and replaced a leaky slave. I did need to address an oil weep from the left side engine cover, (three times. I think I now have it now)

Consumables: 2 sets of belts, 4 sets of tires, one battery, one set of chains and sprockets, oil, coolant etc. other than the belts nothing out of the ordinary.

Maintenance: During the 24 month warranty period, I had 2 major services at the dealership @ 1 large a piece. After that, I’ve spent 200.00 for belts and shims, plus considerable personal time and effort. Therefore, over 7 seasons, I’ve spent approximately 1000.00 on shims and belts if I adjust the dealer service charges to 400.00 a piece for shims and belts. That’s 143.00 a year, (plus considerable personal time) for shims and belts maintenance. So much for the myth about expensive Ducati maintenance. But then again, I don’t mind spending time and effort doing the labour myself to save a lot of cash and making sure it’s done right, if only buttoned up properly.

Parts: Absolutely no problem getting parts within a week’s time. If Ducati has a parts availability problem, I didn’t experience it at all. My dealership provides excellent parts support.


Cons/Concerns:

Takes a lot of time and effort to get to the serviceable parts. Removing and replacing the body panels is a major pita, even if one can get it down to an “art.” The upside is the panels are very sturdy once buttoned up. The double nutted rear axle sucks ass too.

Brake judder. It took a lot of time for my bike to start with the brake juddering, but once it did, it was really bad. I have undertaken several work arounds and am happy with the outcomes at present, ie different pads and modified buttons. I may move to iron full floaters in the future.

Moisture in instrument pod. I wasn’t able to seal it up as I would have liked to and moisture will still condense on the back side of the clear panels under certain circumstances. I will try to source some gortex and place panels over the vent in the rear of the pod.

CPS. I have resorted to cleaning it once a year as part of my seasonal maintenance, but I think it may be on its way out as I get an error code and hard starting every once in a while. My work around when the amber EBDO engine light comes on, is to crank it for a second or 2, cut it with the ignition key, and try again,. Usually the light goes off and it starts no problem, instead of with a long turn over period followed by a loud after fire.

Cracking cases/engine bolts. This was always been on my mind as I did do some research into Ducati ST bikes before and after buying mine and was fully aware of the issue. I did replace the stock bolts with new OEM ones this year, and have always checked the torque settings on both rear and front bolts regularly, and even more so lately, ie each oil change. I have never had to tighten them down.

So after approx 27+K miles, in seven season, (I have 2 bikes and ride an average of 7K miles a year, that’s 1K miles a month, between them) I’m still happy, and the grass still looks emerald on my side. I see no changes in the foreseeable future, unless Ducati does the right thing and comes out with a new, killer ST, then I may take a look.
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Last edited by stryder; Nov 3rd, 2011 at 7:45 am.
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Old Oct 31st, 2011, 10:19 am   #2 (permalink)
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That is weird about the Ducati brake juddering, the second set of rotors bougtht off Ebay are juddering too after just 5k miles. Can't understand why Ducati's seem to have this problem that I've never seen on dozens of Jap bikes I've ridden?
What's your other bike?
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Old Oct 31st, 2011, 10:45 am   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by erikrichard View Post
That is weird about the Ducati brake juddering, the second set of rotors bougtht off Ebay are juddering too after just 5k miles. Can't understand why Ducati's seem to have this problem that I've never seen on dozens of Jap bikes I've ridden?
What's your other bike?
The brake juddering is not specific to Ducati. I have read that generally speaking, USD forks are prone to this type of thing as they can't be braced. I have read numerous reports like yours re the judering reappearing after new rotors which leads me to continue to believe it's not a rotor specific issue, but more of a pads and buttons issue. YMMV.

I have an '87 K75C with a r100rs ferring conversion. I like the bike because it has a lot of character, I've never seen anything like it, and is fairly dependable. If I go prairie crossing, it's my "weapon of choice" because it does highway miles very well. (It was built for a LDR/Iron-Butt'er) It's the "mule", and the ST3 is the "Arabian" in my "stable."
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Last edited by stryder; Oct 31st, 2011 at 12:10 pm.
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Old Oct 31st, 2011, 3:29 pm   #4 (permalink)
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Mine lightly judders, i'm replacing pads this weekend and will clean the caliper pistons very well with q-tips and brake fluid before retracting them. Takes 30 minutes tops. As well as cleaning the rotors very well with light sanding to clean old pad material. Mine feels like an accumulation of old pad on there rather than warping.

What mileage do you do the valves/belts? Or just seasonally?

Mine is going into the shop soon for the major service, then i plan on getting tools and learning the shim job on these bad boys. I also have an 1198 i've put almost 5000 miles on since April. Ill be close to 7500 miles anually on both of them, so 2 trips a year to the dealer could be costly. Ill maintain my 1198 at the dealer until the warranty is up.
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Old Oct 31st, 2011, 5:03 pm   #5 (permalink)
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What mileage do you do the valves/belts?
Shim check/adjust at approx every 6-7 K, and belts every 24-25 months or 12-13K. One of these days, I'm going to have one of my old belts destroyed along with a new one to measure how strong they are after 24 months/12K, because they sure look like they could go another 12 K 24 months when I swap them out. Of course, that cost money. I wonder if members here would like to make donations to perhaps finally put the fear of belts snapping to rest if not greatly deminsh it. I agree with LT in that the worries over correct tension are greatly exagerated. Maybe we can start a collection for the purchase of belts, and the destruction lab fees.
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Last edited by stryder; Oct 31st, 2011 at 5:18 pm.
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Old Oct 31st, 2011, 6:47 pm   #6 (permalink)
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Of the 4 bikes I have, I fall more in love with my buttery-smooth ST3 each day.

I appreciate your points, and must say that every time I jump on and fire-up, I'm reminded of my favorite, low-end music that soothes the soul like no other bike can...

Nothing sounds like a Duc.
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Old Oct 31st, 2011, 9:14 pm   #7 (permalink)
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Nice 1 Stryder. 5 years and 20000kms on the st4s (700km on the clock when bought) and yes the only problem being brake judder. Rotors are straight but buttons have no movement. I clean them and good for maybe 500-1000 kms and same again.

What have you modified on yours that you are happy with?? I was thinking of prying the backside petals open a bit.

I have just been reunited after storage/maintenance for the longest time (8 months) and the bike just gets better with age ....
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Old Oct 31st, 2011, 10:59 pm   #8 (permalink)
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What have you modified on yours that you are happy with?? I was thinking of prying the backside petals open a bit...
After reading about another member doing just that thing, I decided to try it. I used a cold chisel and raised the "corners" of the buttons' *flat washers* on the back side of the rotor between 1 and 2mms to give them a wavy look, and it's helped tremendously. I found when cleaning them that the buttons are not equally tight, and though they're now not equally losened, there's more range of axial movement to lessen that warped rotor feel when some are too tight and move very little or not at all when being gripped. I can now spin them using only my forefinger and thumb. Getting rid of the OEM pads also helped a lot. I'm happy with the results as the mod was effective and free. In the future, I may try full floater buttons or go all the way with full floater iron rotors if I get extra money. I don't think safety's been hurt as their strength is in the radial plane afaik, so modify at your own risk.
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Old Oct 31st, 2011, 11:10 pm   #9 (permalink)
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Nice write up. Thanks Frank.
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Old Oct 31st, 2011, 11:24 pm   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stryder View Post
After reading about another member doing just that thing, I decided to try it. I used a cold chisel and raised the "corners" of the buttons' *flat washers* on the back side of the rotor between 1 and 2mms to give them a wavy look, and it's helped tremendously. I found when cleaning them that the buttons are not equally tight, and though they're now not equally losened, there's more range of axial movement to lessen that warped rotor feel when some are too tight and move very little or not at all when being gripped. I can now spin them using only my forefinger and thumb. Getting rid of the OEM pads also helped a lot. I'm happy with the results as the mod was effective and free. In the future, I may try full floater buttons or go all the way with full floater iron rotors if I get extra money. I don't think safety's been hurt as their strength is in the radial plane afaik, so modify at your own risk.
Excellent I am going to give this a go before the ride on the weekend. If you look at other bikes such as the BMW 1000RR and Aprilias they only have 6 button rotors so axial load is well taken care of.
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