Drilling Carbon Fibre

[Gearbox]

I am just about to embark on the re-sleeving of my OEM silencers with Carbon Fibre.

I have the procedure clearly set out but is there anything special I need to be aware of ?

Do I need any special drill-bits , is it better to use a wood bit (not the flat type but the type with a centralising tip and outer points) or a straight forward metal cutting bit and should I drill the bolt holes (for the mounting bracket) in one go each or in stages using increasingly larger bit sizes ?

Does anyone know the size of the rivets holding the end plate on ?
(It would be nice to be sure I have the right size to hand)

Appreciate any pointers.

[troubled otter]

I just drilled holes in my carbon fairing with no problems. I drilled a tiny centre hole first with a standard metal drill bit making sure there was a piece of wood behind. Then drilled the size hole I needed, again with a piece of wood behind.
Hope this helps

Phill

[ptourin]

A spur bit is easy to use because of the central point, which positions well - and it'll cut a cleaner hole because of the spurs. But everybody except fancy-dan woodworkers (like me <g>...) uses standard metal bits. It's good to use an awl to make a positioning mark/dent and start with a smaller bit - easier to be accurate that way.

[troubled otter]

What ever you do don't use a flat wood bit with a point. It will reck it.

Stock ST Exhaust Mod

Drill bit sizes on here.

[Derek]

I just re-sleeved my Sil-Motor cans with carbon fibre sleeves after a recent off resulting in a severe road rash on the RH can
I covered the whole outside of the sleeve with wide masking tape so that I wouldn't accidentally scratch when working on it. For drilling the 10mm holes for where the bracket fits I would have stuck masking tape on first anyway. It gives a good surface for marking with a pencil and it helps stop the drill bit slipping. I drilled an 3mm pilot hole as a guide before opening it out to 10mm with a sharp normal bit. I used 4mm x 10.5mm large flange head blind pop rivets that I got off ebay.
For each of the end caps I marked out the position of the first rivet hole and started at that point working my way round so that the rivet holes lined up with the original holes in the caps. If your OEM cans don't have straps you will need to mark out all the holes or else drill new ones right through the sleeve and the cap in different positions from the originals.

This is the sleeve I took off;




and this is the end result;

[04749s]

Here's an older thread I did about Repacking Staintunes and replacing the c/f sleeves

[Derek]

Which reminds me, I used Accoustafil to re-pack them. It was very easy.

[Gearbox]

OK , thanks guys for the guidance , I will incorporate all of it into my work.
As I am just re-sleeving the standard exhaust I can simply re-rivet the end cap into the original holes so I dont have to worry about marking the correct position of the holes.
I'll post a piccie of the finished article and detail any mishaps (if any arise) when the deed is done.

[MarkST]

Originally Posted by Derek

I just re-sleeved my Sil-Motor cans with carbon fibre sleeves

Nice work Derek, very nice.

[MarkST]

Originally Posted by Gearbox

OK , thanks guys for the guidance , I will incorporate all of it into my work.

Have you a supplier for the carbon sleeves yet Allan ?
If not, this is a very handy resource - PJ Engineering - Home Page - Manufacturers & suppliers of High Temp. Carbon Fibre, Stainless & Titanium Tubes and Performance Motorcycle Exhaust parts in Lincolnshire, UK