Just call me Mr Leak - Ducati.ms

tonered · Oct 25th, 2011, 2:01 pm

Seriously, I can't count the number of things that are leaking around the house (and I am seriously lazy about fixing them). For a while, the wooden bung on the beer keg was leaking and draining the nitro mix. We have two areas of our garage that will weep water in the wet season, the rear shock went TU on our wagon, it also started leaking oil from a joint that no one ever saw leaking, the damn shower leaks in the corner, the anti-frost hose bibs need yearly seals, and there's a couple others that I am forgetting.

Now that the vert cyl base gasket is still weeping at a acceptable rate, one of the freakin' clutch seals is blowing out. I remember seeing some wetness from the larger one on the input shaft when I replaced the basket. So, I am guessing that is it. I did order the one for the hub just in case. It has come to wiping down the crankcase daily, again. WT. . .???

So, does anyone have any pointers here? Is it a challenge to get out the seal behind the hub?

I'm waiting for a ship confirmation for Duc Omaha to know whether these are in stock or coming from Italy.

Have a good one.

latte committee · Oct 25th, 2011, 2:15 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by tonered

<snipped >
Seriously, I can't count the number of things that are leaking around the house (and I am seriously lazy about fixing them).

Have a good one.

Ok ,,,, If you insist ,,,,, Mr Leak

By the way ,,,,, how's ya bladder and prostate ?

SS904 · Oct 25th, 2011, 2:57 pm

Nature's Broom Absorbent oil speedy dry kitty litter

I hate things that leak. There are a few nagging leaks around the house, but none on the bike (a fact the wife mentions a lot)...

mw0dbb · Oct 25th, 2011, 3:10 pm

Probably easier to take the side case off, there is only about 10 screws holding it on. A good tip is to get yourself a piece of card and number the bolts!! Makes it alot easier to figure out where the bolts go! Hylomar will do for re-sealing the case again. As for taking the big seal out just use a piece of wood and tap it out. I think to putting a new one in I would put the seal in the freezer and maybe heat the case slightly! It should just drop in then without any damage.

John

C-simian · Oct 25th, 2011, 3:28 pm

No, no, not Mr. Leak. With you it has to be Leakered.

At least one mechanic friend here swears that the Ducati 1215 theebond is the best for both sides of the engine, and I just got some from Gotham at a reasonable price. Otherwise kind of hard to find or really expensive.

Good luck on that leaky stuff. We just had the roof redone because the "30 year roof" lasted twenty-one years and then kept letting us know it was unhappy.

Ron

tonered · Oct 25th, 2011, 4:27 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by latte committee

Ok ,,,, If you insist ,,,,, Mr Leak

By the way ,,,,, how's ya bladder and prostate ?

Ha! They're holding for the moment, but I'm sure they're next. =P Although, that bung. . .

Quote:

Originally Posted by SS904

Nature's Broom Absorbent oil speedy dry kitty litter

I hate things that leak. There are a few nagging leaks around the house, but none on the bike (a fact the wife mentions a lot)...

Me too. There is nothing worse than oil spots.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mw0dbb

Probably easier to take the side case off, there is only about 10 screws holding it on. A good tip is to get yourself a piece of card and number the bolts!! Makes it alot easier to figure out where the bolts go! Hylomar will do for re-sealing the case again. As for taking the big seal out just use a piece of wood and tap it out. I think to putting a new one in I would put the seal in the freezer and maybe heat the case slightly! It should just drop in then without any damage.

John

Thanks for the tips. I definitely have some cardboard. I was thinking of sizing a piece of 2x6 (5.1x15.2

) to fit and tapping gently?

Quote:

Originally Posted by C-simian

No, no, not Mr. Leak. With you it has to be Leakered.

At least one mechanic friend here swears that the Ducati 1215 theebond is the best for both sides of the engine, and I just got some from Gotham at a reasonable price. Otherwise kind of hard to find or really expensive.

Good luck on that leaky stuff. We just had the roof redone because the "30 year roof" lasted twenty-one years and then kept letting us know it was unhappy.

Ron

If you insist.

I have most of a tube of threebond from the base gasket incident. That is some pretty wicked stuff.

Question, I think I saw somewhere that said it was a 24hr cure. Anybody have confirmation of that? It obviously didn't help that much with the other leak. LOL. I was thinking of doing the galley drill, tap, and seal thing at a friend's place while replacing these seals. I'd like to ride home when done.

BTW, I guess I never explained that. It is an acronym for TOny aNd ERica (the Wife), Emersyn and Delaney (the Girls). TONERED =) It used to be TONER before the Girlies came along.

Have a good one.

C-simian · Oct 26th, 2011, 6:36 pm

I've seen mechanics use the Ducati 1215 three bond and fire it up within the hour to check for leaks in the left case. My understanding is that there's a difference between final cure (takes days) and useable cure (matter of hours), but I don't have a spec sheet in front of me. Good luck.

Ron

tonered · Oct 27th, 2011, 10:13 am

Thanks, Ron.

That sounds good to me. On the base gasket, I let it sit 24hrs. It did seem to leak more at first. There isn't that kind of oil pressure on the side cover, so I won't worry.

Have a good one.

MAZDuc · Nov 7th, 2011, 5:46 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by tonered

Thanks, Ron.

That sounds good to me. On the base gasket, I let it sit 24hrs. It did seem to leak more at first. There isn't that kind of oil pressure on the side cover, so I won't worry.

Have a good one.

My dry clutch was slipping the other day so I tried to blow it out with air. Clutch was new about 7,000 miles ago, I guess I have to buy a new Barrett pack because of what I found. A layer of grease type stuff on the clutch cover. I think I have a seal going on the trans side of the clutch pack.

Has anyone replaced the seals, on a 2004 ST3, for the clutch rod and the transmission seal? Who sells a kit to repair the seals and how do I go about clean the whole mess of the oil mixed with the clutch dust? Do I remove the clutch basket and get in there and what can I use to clean the inner wall of the clutch assembly?
Thanks,
Mark

C-simian · Nov 7th, 2011, 7:47 pm

MAZDuc,

I've replaced the pushrod seal, if you mean the small seal that goes in the needle bearing as the pushrod come out of the driven shaft, before it enters the bushing held by the throwout bearing. LT Snyder sells the pushrod stuff (under clutch > row 4, #1), a single order that includes the orings and the seal, all for the normal dry clutch. I believe this is part number 937830812; Ducati Omaha lists it as $4.99. No problem there. But the transmission seal behind the basket? Can't help you there.

Ron