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Old Oct 2nd, 2011, 3:17 pm   #1 (permalink)
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E-lectric gloves and vest - 2006 ST3 Wattage

The weather in Waco offers almost year 'round riding but it will get down to the 20's during the winter. I have a set of Widder gloves and the vest. The gloves draw 20-watts and the vest 30-35 watts; will this overload the alternator/battery and/or the power outlet?

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Curt
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Old Oct 2nd, 2011, 3:29 pm   #2 (permalink)
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Old Oct 2nd, 2011, 3:39 pm   #3 (permalink)
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Thank you!
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Old Oct 2nd, 2011, 5:29 pm   #4 (permalink)
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No issues at all with my Gerbing's

I've been using the gloves and jacket liner for several years now and have had zero problems.

It's fortunate we can ride pretty much year round. Sadly, it's pretty flat and straight where I am.
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Old Oct 2nd, 2011, 7:09 pm   #5 (permalink)
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1999 on up have a 520 Watt alternator. It takes maybe 200W to "run" the bike (including the 55W headlamp), So there's a lot of room for more. I used to have a 1998 ST2, and I ran a 140W jacket (homemade), grips 30W, Aux lighting 110 W. I did this with the low beam AND hi beam, (another 110W)., and the beast never blew.
the 1998 ST2 had a 420W stator. So with the newer 3 ph. 520W stators can take even more additional loads.
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Old Oct 2nd, 2011, 11:21 pm   #6 (permalink)
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The MY 03 and later ST models have the upgraded electrical outlet if the OP wants to plug his electric apparel into it.
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Old Oct 3rd, 2011, 12:47 am   #7 (permalink)
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THank you Bill,
great question..
03 st4s abs

"So with the newer 3 ph. 520W stators can take even more additional loads."

DD Headlight, heated grips, my gerbing jacket, my wife's gerbing jacket- at idle,
my tach bounces off zero.
then I turn the grips down it holds. anything above 2k rpm non issue.

my conclusion, its a form an amp meter, and she telling me we are using a bit of battery power, until the rpm come up, even a very little amount.

yes,
no
maybee?

THank you Stick, for your time and knowledge!
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Old Oct 3rd, 2011, 3:15 am   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acpdx View Post
THank you Bill,
great question..
03 st4s abs

"So with the newer 3 ph. 520W stators can take even more additional loads."

DD Headlight, heated grips, my gerbing jacket, my wife's gerbing jacket- at idle,
my tach bounces off zero.
then I turn the grips down it holds. anything above 2k rpm non issue.

my conclusion, its a form an amp meter, and she telling me we are using a bit of battery power, until the rpm come up, even a very little amount.

yes,
no
maybee?

THank you Stick, for your time and knowledge!
Andrew: long time no see. Remember when PG, my son Daren, and I rode with you to Wallowa Lake for the Yahoo ST owners group's annual Madness Rally? That was a really great trip which my son enjoyed immensely.

I cannot remember the minimum revs necessary for the alternator to start charging the battery (1700 rpm?), but from discussions on the Yahoo group, I do recall that it will not charge the battery while the bike is merely idling.
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Last edited by Bill_Anderson; Oct 3rd, 2011 at 3:21 am.
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Old Oct 3rd, 2011, 12:15 pm   #9 (permalink)
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I measured my ST2 when the OEM battery was in it. Observed 1Amp out of the battery at idle, so you don't want to stay idling for extended periods. Up around 2000 rpm, it would get to 14.5V at the battery.

My ST4S tach also bounces off zero at idle if I run both headlights and maybe the brakelight. I plan to look at the connections on the rear of the tach, the next time I have the fairing off. Many gents in here complain about the "lousy" connections back there.

Also lousy/intermittennt connections on the luminescent readout panel on the pre 2004 ST2, ST4, ST4s's
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Try this home-cure-all: Shove a DUC between your legs.

Present DUC: 2003 ST4S Yellow!
Past DUCs: 1998 ST2, 1981 500SL Pantah, 1985 MHR Mille, 1987 Paso Limited, 1995 916 mono
Other brands (past):
1978 BMW R100RS Motosport, 1978 R100S, 1981 Moto Guzzi V50 Monza (wife's bike), and a long list of Hondasakizukis
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Old Oct 6th, 2011, 9:11 am   #10 (permalink)
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I started using an electric jacket and gloves last year and have had no issues. Something that I have done to my bike that others should consider is removing the plug-in from the alternator to the rectifier. Mine showed some black from burning inside the plug so I cut it out and soldered the wires. With the wires soldered, I have measured the battery with the bike running and actually see a light charge at idle.

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