Part 1.
March 2009.
The route-
Bangkok-Khon Kaen-Udon Thani-Loei-Nan-Chiang Rai-Chiang Mai-Mae Hon Song-Mae Sot-Bangkok.
The riders-
Me on a 2008 848 and Grant on a 2007 S2R1000
Amost 2,700 kilometers on some of the twistiest roads on Earth.
The 400 klm route from Bangkok to Khon Kaen is pretty unremarkable; mostly flat straight highway. Really opened the throttle on the 848 but everytime I got up some real speed, something would happen in front of me. If it wasn't a farmer in a pick-up doing a u-turn, it'd be a sleeping dog on the road.
Bangkok to KK.
A shout out to the Khon Kaen Orchid hotel run by Derek. The best hotel we stayed at on the entire trip.
Visited a dinosaur park just outside KK. Didn't see any dinosaurs though.
KK to Udon Thani.
Army and police checkpoints are a regular occurance in Thailand. The army ranger stationed here was barely awake though.
My wingman, Grant checking his GPS which is a neccesity in this part of the world.
Udon to Loei.
I've heard the 848 isn't really recommended as a touring bike but that was half the challenge.
The scenery was amazing but very desolate in parts. Check out the twisty road in the distance on the right.
We'd often stop for lunch at roadside shacks. Some of the best Thai food can be had at places like this.
Loei to Nan.
The most technically difficult part of the journey. Many curves had to be taken going down from 2nd to 1st gear due to the severe incline.
Loei is the most desolate and uninhabited part of Thailand and it showed. We wouldn't pass another vehicle for hours or even see any houses for that matter. This is unusual as you'll always see a rubber-tapper's shack, a little hamlet or whatever, wherever you are in the Thai countryside.
But here there was
nothing!
Not a good place to run out of gas, right? Taking a 50 klm unsceduled detour on a mountain road that became a dirt track causing us to turn back didn't help but toward the end of the journey, dusk was falling and I was 40 klm into the fuel reserve. And starting to worry. This wasn't a good place to become stranded. And to add to the worry, Grant's headlight stopped working

and would remain dead for the remainder of the journey.
Luck was upon us and we came upon a Thai army ranger checkpoint who told us of a little village 15 klm away that had gas. More luck kicked in as most of the ride from here was downhill so I could coast down in neutral to save gas.
It worked and we topped up with gas sold in plastic Coke bottles from the ubiquitous roadside shack.
We didn't make it to Nan so stopped in the town of Na Noi (see map) for the night and would ride on to Nan the next day. The technical nature of the ride was starting to tell. Slightly swollen hands and a backside that was showing signs of wear and tear.
All we could find in the way of accomodation were these 8 dollar bungalows.

Made our way to Nan the next morning.
Nan to Chiang Rai.

My favourite part of the trip. Great sweeping curves at speed.
Chiang Rai was fairly developed compared to the previous 2 towns. It had a Pizza Hut.
Chiang Rai to Chiang Mai.
This part of Thailand is much more developed than the Loei area. Roadside cafes were easy to find.
Grant still trying to see whether he can turn his headlight on.

And 'Sharp Curve'? F*cking 'A' sharp curves!
We spent 3 days in Chiang Mai, in part to recover from the previous week's riding and the good nightlife here.
Doi (mountain) Suthep.