New springs for plus size guys

[Turkishexpress]

Originally Posted by Ted038

But are the right springs always available ??? (standard is 85N, but is there a spring available with 86N, 87N , 88N , etc ?)

And if you gain/loose 10 pounds in weight, you'll need to buy different springs ? No, small changes are adjusted through the electronics, since they also manage the preload.

Especially because there is so much to tweak on the MTS 1200 S 's, and almost every rider has his/hers own favorite settings. Some even don't use the standard "with, luggage, Wit passenger, With luggage & passenger" load-settings & the 4 riding modes as Ducati intended, but transform them into rain-settings or different settings per racetrack.

But perhaps we have a different perception of what is to be understood as "electronics"...

You're trying to get way too technical. You can just change valving and oil type/viscosity if that's your prerogative. What really matter is having a strong enough spring so that your shock doesn't have to perform outside of its efficiency which it will when you have 200+ lbs in the rear with a 85 spring. Hence the limited options as far as springs go. They should have a 120 spring as well though for those of us that already weight 280+ though. With a passenger and full top/side cases you're looking at 400+ lbs up top.

[kope999R]

Originally Posted by Ted038

As standard sizes for the MTS1200S, the certainly don't come in every N, and the 100N is the only available heavier rear spring on the ducati partlist.

Maar misschien is dit beter eens te bespreken met een fijne pint op een terras bij Coo of Huy
(english : But perhaps we should discuss this with some beer at some welknown bikerspots in Belgium)

oh yes!

[Zenmoto]

Perhaps I'm stating the obvious here, but running the "rider + luggage" setting when riding solo / no (major) luggage, front end dive under hard braking and any minor wallowing in turns is pretty much eliminated. If you're a particularly husky human, you could go to the 2-up setting... provided of course that you don't plan on doing much (or hardly any) actual 2-up + luggage riding. It's when you run out of settings that re-springing becomes more of a necessity. Of course, we could always opt to step away from the double-chesseburger and hit the gym / bicycle / hiking trail a bit more often, thereby saving $$$ on both springs and L-T healthcare!!!

[Zenmoto]

Thought I'd revive this, as I've gone ahead & purchased both the front and rear spring upgrades we talked about above. Before I have 'em installed, there are a couple of things I learned in talking with Dan Kyle that I should share, and one question that you might be able to help with.

First, the 100 Nm rear spring is 5 mm longer than the stock spring, which means the rear pre-load adjuster needs to be moved a corresponding 5 mm.

Second, he suggests a possibility: if getting the work done in tandem with the front end shim (warranty) work to stop the 'clunking effect' (which I am), the higher rate springs MAY eliminate the need for the shims. Does anyone who's had the springs installed (but not the shim kit) noticed that the clunking has gone away? Provided you were experiencing it in the first place, of course!

Third, apparently, the shim kit comes with a pretty hefty service bulletin suggesting that the forks need to come off in order to do the work -- a fairly lengthy & involved operation. Mr. Kyle (who knows his Ohlins better than anyone I've spoken with; indeed, I think they're the top U.S. distributor) also suggested that the work could be done with the forks on the bike, but you'd have to move (or remove) the handlebar. Any thoughts on that score?

I'd like to minimize the amount of time I'm without the bike, but my primary concern is getting the work done right, and not adding any bits that aren't needed if the burlier springs will do the trick. Any insight gleaned through personal experience would be most

[Ted038]

Originally Posted by Zenmoto

if getting the work done in tandem with the front end shim (warranty) work to stop the 'clunking effect' (which I am), the higher rate springs MAY eliminate the need for the shims.

Third, apparently, the shim kit comes with a pretty hefty service bulletin suggesting that the forks need to come off in order to do the work -- a fairly lengthy & involved operation. Any thoughts on that score?

If it indeed is warranty, i think the dealer should do it themselves or hire an expert and this shouldn't cost you anything, whether they take the forks off or not ?

[OldDiavel]

Originally Posted by Zenmoto

Thought I'd revive this, as I've gone ahead & purchased both the front and rear spring upgrades we talked about above. Before I have 'em installed, there are a couple of things I learned in talking with Dan Kyle that I should share, and one question that you might be able to help with.

First, the 100 Nm rear spring is 5 mm longer than the stock spring, which means the rear pre-load adjuster needs to be moved a corresponding 5 mm.

Second, he suggests a possibility: if getting the work done in tandem with the front end shim (warranty) work to stop the 'clunking effect' (which I am), the higher rate springs MAY eliminate the need for the shims. Does anyone who's had the springs installed (but not the shim kit) noticed that the clunking has gone away? Provided you were experiencing it in the first place, of course!

Third, apparently, the shim kit comes with a pretty hefty service bulletin suggesting that the forks need to come off in order to do the work -- a fairly lengthy & involved operation. Mr. Kyle (who knows his Ohlins better than anyone I've spoken with; indeed, I think they're the top U.S. distributor) also suggested that the work could be done with the forks on the bike, but you'd have to move (or remove) the handlebar. Any thoughts on that score?

I'd like to minimize the amount of time I'm without the bike, but my primary concern is getting the work done right, and not adding any bits that aren't needed if the burlier springs will do the trick. Any insight gleaned through personal experience would be most

I had the shims added under warranty and had the dealer replace the front springs with 70Nm springs while they had the top caps off the forks. The tech did not remove the forks; he went in through the top after removing the handle bars. So I now have the shims as well as the upgraded springs.

[Zenmoto]

Originally Posted by OldDiavel

I had the shims added under warranty and had the dealer replace the front springs with 70Nm springs while they had the top caps off the forks. The tech did not remove the forks; he went in through the top after removing the handle bars. So I now have the shims as well as the upgraded springs.

This is really helpful (and right on time, since I'm heading in to have it done this morning). It's good to know that it sounds like there's no downside to having both the uprated springs AND the shim kit installed; I'll ask them to proceed on that course. Thanks very; I'll post up again once I've had a chance to pour some miles into her. I'm also going to have them re-set the sag after the install, since that's bound to change as a result of the upgrade.

Of course, now I'll be forced to continue drinking beer and eating pizza, so as to derive max benefit from the upgrade.... Ah, the sacrifices we make for our sport.

[whistle]

Had a brief ride today with new springs (one up from stock, I weight 205 plus gear) and could feel a substantial difference. Don't hesitate to upgrade if you are in the 200+lbs range.

[deeper]

Originally Posted by Zenmoto

Thought I'd revive this, as I've gone ahead & purchased both the front and rear spring upgrades we talked about above. Before I have 'em installed, there are a couple of things I learned in talking with Dan Kyle that I should share, and one question that you might be able to help with.

First, the 100 Nm rear spring is 5 mm longer than the stock spring, which means the rear pre-load adjuster needs to be moved a corresponding 5 mm.

Second, he suggests a possibility: if getting the work done in tandem with the front end shim (warranty) work to stop the 'clunking effect' (which I am), the higher rate springs MAY eliminate the need for the shims. Does anyone who's had the springs installed (but not the shim kit) noticed that the clunking has gone away? Provided you were experiencing it in the first place, of course!

Third, apparently, the shim kit comes with a pretty hefty service bulletin suggesting that the forks need to come off in order to do the work -- a fairly lengthy & involved operation. Mr. Kyle (who knows his Ohlins better than anyone I've spoken with; indeed, I think they're the top U.S. distributor) also suggested that the work could be done with the forks on the bike, but you'd have to move (or remove) the handlebar. Any thoughts on that score?

I'd like to minimize the amount of time I'm without the bike, but my primary concern is getting the work done right, and not adding any bits that aren't needed if the burlier springs will do the trick. Any insight gleaned through personal experience would be most

Originally Posted by Zenmoto

This is really helpful (and right on time, since I'm heading in to have it done this morning). It's good to know that it sounds like there's no downside to having both the uprated springs AND the shim kit installed; I'll ask them to proceed on that course. Thanks very; I'll post up again once I've had a chance to pour some miles into her. I'm also going to have them re-set the sag after the install, since that's bound to change as a result of the upgrade.

Of course, now I'll be forced to continue drinking beer and eating pizza, so as to derive max benefit from the upgrade.... Ah, the sacrifices we make for our sport.

^^^^^^These^^^^^^

Originally Posted by whistle

Had a brief ride today with new springs (one up from stock, I weight 205 plus gear) and could feel a substantial difference. Don't hesitate to upgrade if you are in the 200+lbs range.

Dammit! Been trying to keep the bike as stock as possible. It does and handles everything that I ask of it and it gives me back more(in tickets). But I do it in 2-up w/bags at all times and I'm 6' 238lbs. Likely 250 w/gear. What I'm saying is I was hoping not to have to but I fear I could be overcoming the OEM rear shock little by little so an upgrade may be in order. Am I wrong on this? I mean I kind of like the soft and springy when ripping thru the city in URBAN MODE w/150 low, of course. It's so smooth I barely notice the bumps(to all you anti-URBAN MODE guys). Will I lose this but gain as I slip into SPORT MODE? Or would I be gaining in all MODES?

[psyco]

Originally Posted by Zenmoto

Thought I'd revive this, as I've gone ahead & purchased both the front and rear spring upgrades we talked about above. Before I have 'em installed, there are a couple of things I learned in talking with Dan Kyle that I should share, and one question that you might be able to help with.

First, the 100 Nm rear spring is 5 mm longer than the stock spring, which means the rear pre-load adjuster needs to be moved a corresponding 5 mm.

Second, he suggests a possibility: if getting the work done in tandem with the front end shim (warranty) work to stop the 'clunking effect' (which I am), the higher rate springs MAY eliminate the need for the shims. Does anyone who's had the springs installed (but not the shim kit) noticed that the clunking has gone away? Provided you were experiencing it in the first place, of course!

Third, apparently, the shim kit comes with a pretty hefty service bulletin suggesting that the forks need to come off in order to do the work -- a fairly lengthy & involved operation. Mr. Kyle (who knows his Ohlins better than anyone I've spoken with; indeed, I think they're the top U.S. distributor) also suggested that the work could be done with the forks on the bike, but you'd have to move (or remove) the handlebar. Any thoughts on that score?

I'd like to minimize the amount of time I'm without the bike, but my primary concern is getting the work done right, and not adding any bits that aren't needed if the burlier springs will do the trick. Any insight gleaned through personal experience would be most

I just had mine done ,my new upgraded rear 100NM spring was 5mm shorter than the stock one . What did you get ? Mine was straight from Ohlins .