MHR PHM Carb syncing

[anatak]

Hello,

I am trying to sync the carbs on an MHR.
I read the instructions provided by bevelheaven but I have some questions.
Here are the instructions

*Back out slide screws so they are not touching the slides
*seat [turn in] the mixture screw completely [closed] then back it out 1.5 turns for PHF carbs, 2 turns out for PHM carbs
*loosen throttle cables so there is at least 1/8" freeplay at the adjusters on top of carbs — no freeplay? Remove the locknut from
the adjuster and reinstall, use some Teflon tape on the adjuster screws. Plastic top cap carbs just remove them to start with.
*pull throttle cable to make sure gas squirts out the pump jet on each carb. If it doesn’t then you need to prime the carbs. Put
your finger over the non-return valve on top of the pump housing and pull the cable until gas squirts. Do the other carb. If you
have trouble, remove the non return valve and put 6—10 drops of gas in the hole and reinstall. Try again.
*warm up bike and hook up vacuum gauges [OK] or mercury tubes [great]
*adjust slide screws so you have an even idle tickover w/even vacuum readings, don't worry about the rpm at this point, just work
to attain the same vacuum readings for each cylinder.
*twist throttle so tickover goes to 2-2500 RPM or thereabouts and hold her steady [a friend here makes it easy]
*adjust for even vacuum at this RPM by turning the cable adjusters on top of carb[s] in or out - adjustment starts by backing out
whichever adjuster needs to be backed out [on whichever carb] to get constant vacuum between both carbs. Pull a cable to see
which one you should start with.
*check idle vacuum again and re adjust slide screws as necessary. Adjust for proper tickover RPM now, using the slide screws only.
*adj cables so each has just a bit of freeplay, check 2500 PRM vacuum reading w/gauges again and readjust at the cable adjusters
as req'd—this is a VERY important step. You MUST have a bit of free play in the cables!
*start playing with mixture screw for max idle [in = leaner or less gas]. I listen for sound change, and use my fingers over the muffler
end to feel for a stronger exhaust pulse while I turn the mixture screw on that cylinder's carb.

Now I have a few questions.
1) which screw is the slide screw
2) which screw is the mixture screw

I added some pictures with letters pointing to the various screws.
my guess is that the slide screw is the screw to change idle (Screw B in the pictures) and A is the mixture screw but I wanted to make sure before I start messing around and end up with two totally complete out of sync carbs.

[Duccout]

The small screw nearer the manifold is the mixture screw, the larger one with the spring is the slide screw. I always get the tickover right first and then use the vacuum gauges to get both slides lifting at the same time. Before you sart, make sure that both rubber inlet manifold spacers are not split and that the choke plunger rubber ends have not perished, which would give a rich mixture.

[anatak]

thx
going to sync now before it starts raining

[Bevel-Heaven]

what you are calling B and C are the slide screws for idle adjustment

What you are calling A is the pump jet holder. If you unscrew that, you will get the pump jet out with it so you can clean that jet out.

The small screw you did not label is the mixture screw.

If you follow my instructions exactly (here is the link http://www.bevelheaven.com/~BB/phpBB...topic.php?t=10), you will have the best luck sync'ing those carbs assuming you are going to first disassemble them, clean completely and rebuild using new seal kits, pump diaphragms and float needle valves.

Someone above mentioned checking those intake manifold insulators. That is very good advice. If they leak replace them before you do damage to your valves.