DIY paint or pro?

[DreyeIce]

I have all my parts in bare metal, would you guys DIY or get a pro to do it?

i have either option, with the pro i would do epoxy primer and enamel black top coat for the chassis and forks, and then a silver paint with clear for the other stuff.

with DIY i would be using dupli-color rattle cans. etching primer, sandable primer ontop of that, then primer sealer. then for paint it would be either thier enamel black. for silver parts, same primer routine, but enamel silver and lots of coats of clear.

obviously the DIY would be wayy cheaper to do, but what would you guys do or change in any of my setups.

Thanks

[Duccout]

Going the pro way is a lot easier! if you go DIY, be careful of the clear laquer if you are using rattle cans, as it is usually not resistant to degreasing fluid, or petrol, so your lovely finish ends up melting before your eyes when you are cleaning the bike!

[DreyeIce]

good point, im just so confused and kinda worried, because i have many peices to be done and decals to put on, so i would feel safer if i were to do it, but i know i dont have the skill or space (yet) to do it as good as i want it to be.

does anyone know how much (roughly) a painter would cost to do chassis parts and my accessories like fenders and light bucket?

[DT996]

Post a picture of the parts in one shot, I can tell you what you should pay for the list you posted. CA to NY shouldn't be too different in terms of pricing, depending on where your local shops are based.

DT

[DreyeIce]

ok, the fenders lot is the one that needs silver, and the frame lot needs black.




also what paint would i use or ask for? epoxy primer everything and enamel paints?

[DT996]

Originally Posted by DreyeIce

ok, the fenders lot is the one that needs silver, and the frame lot needs black.




also what paint would i use or ask for? epoxy primer everything and enamel paints?

1) First set (Black) could run you from $400-$600 for the steps you originally listed.
2) Second set (Silver) could be $250-$500, again as originally listed.

• Quality and condition of the parts determines how much time is spent getting them to sprayable status.
  
• I always use Basecoat/Clearcoat system, unless something else is specified. Single stage (Enamel system) is usually cheaper as there is one less step due to clearcoat being eliminated.
  
• There are painters who will give you a set price for doing the lot, but their standard of quality and your expectations determines the price range.
  
• Rattle can can be any material, Dupli-color is reliable for what it is, paint suppliers can put any product in a spray can these days so don't be afraid to ask for advice or make special requests

In the end, it's really all about what you expect to end up with, and if saving money is the biggest up-front issue, then rattle can will do just fine. There are plenty of horror stories and people who will try to talk you out of DIY, but if you go into it with enough research and practice, it should be fine.

If you spend the money at a paint shop, you will get piece of mind and pretty much a guarntee that the results will be what you set the level at, but you must be diligent in explaining your expectations to the painter and hold them to their word/contract. Nothing to fear here unless you find an unscrupulous painter, but that's not too hard to spot.

Good luck with your decision, and don't forget to post the results!

DT

[Nacademus]

DT is right. If you pay the big bucks for a pro, you're guaranteed to get your results. If you rattle can it, you can spend a hundredth the cost and get great results as well-so long as you prep, and prep well.

You can always take the paint off and start again if your rattle can job is not up to snuff. Paint is never permanent, its not like you're using Imron. lol.

Epoxy is harder in 90 percent of the cases than base/clear or enamel. Taking it off is very tough, should you ever want to. It usually costs more.
Enamel is good, strong (enough), and super easy to touch up. The color may not be as DEEP as a base/clear job, but it really all depends on what you want.

May I ask, why not powder coat? Those items should take powder very easily. Powder is far stronger than paint.



If you find someone who knows what the hell they're doing, PC can go down as smooth as any paint would

[remery]

No way in the world I would use a rattle can. Does your budget extend to buy a spray gun and cheap-arse compressor?

[DreyeIce]

Originally Posted by remery

No way in the world I would use a rattle can. Does your budget extend to buy a spray gun and cheap-arse compressor?

i have a nice 25 gallon compressor i just bought. what kind of "cheap" gun would you recommend?.....but would me buying paint, setting up a "booth" and getting it with almost no experience with a paint gun outweigh just getting a pro to do it?

im going to meet the painter tomorrow night, i just called him this morning, he's going to give me quotes and see what were going to do, if that dosent happen then looks like i WILL be getting a paintgun!

[DT996]

If you are not happy with the painter's quote, don't spend too much time trying to negotiate the price down, as he's set his price for what works for him based on what he will be doing for you. Anything less is likely to either offend him or waste his time to be a profitable painter.

Depending on the estimate, and let's say you don't like it or can't afford it at the time, you should consider spending 75% of that estimate to get yourself set up for painting it yourself. This idea is based on making an investment rather than just saving money. You invest not just in your current paintjob, but rather in yourself and extending your abilities to use in the future.

If you decide that you wish to take it up yourself, shoot me an email (in my profile)and I will write you up a detailed checklist of what you will need to get this particular job done. Pricing in your area may be different from my sources, but the baselines will be something for you to get started with for the time being.