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Old Jan 3rd, 2012, 6:22 pm   #1 (permalink)
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Clutch issue continues

Hi all,

I am still battling with fitting this clutch, tried the old springs. Also checked the EVR slave if it had a rod extension inside and it didn't. Pressure plate depth is 11.5 mm. All seems good but once you lock it into gear it wont stall out nor drive forward. I have attached photos of the replacement drum, EVR slave and the basket. I have to be doing something wrong.

Would anyone have any ideas?

Also when I fit the new drum, is there any certain thing it has to line up with? i.e like the marking on the pressure plate and marking on the drum? On the shaft is a small stamping of some type as per the picture. It could be nothing!

Thanks for reading.


We have had some part of a win, I went back to the original drum, and we can now stall it out and move forward.

A question for the Motowheels boys, It seems the new NGR drum sits to far back, should I have a space or something between the basket and drum to bring it forward?
Attached Thumbnails
Clutch issue continues-img-20120104-00076.jpg   Clutch issue continues-img-20120104-00077.jpg   Clutch issue continues-img-20120104-00078.jpg   Clutch issue continues-img-20120104-00080.jpg  
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Last edited by Horseonly; Jan 3rd, 2012 at 6:44 pm. Reason: Update
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Old Jan 3rd, 2012, 8:52 pm   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Horseonly View Post
Hi all,

I am still battling with fitting this clutch, tried the old springs. Also checked the EVR slave if it had a rod extension inside and it didn't. Pressure plate depth is 11.5 mm. All seems good but once you lock it into gear it wont stall out nor drive forward. I have attached photos of the replacement drum, EVR slave and the basket. I have to be doing something wrong.

Would anyone have any ideas?

Also when I fit the new drum, is there any certain thing it has to line up with? i.e like the marking on the pressure plate and marking on the drum? On the shaft is a small stamping of some type as per the picture. It could be nothing!

Thanks for reading.


We have had some part of a win, I went back to the original drum, and we can now stall it out and move forward.

A question for the Motowheels boys, It seems the new NGR drum sits to far back, should I have a space or something between the basket and drum to bring it forward?
I dont believe the drum has any alignment rules other than when the pressure plate goes on, it must be on the drum at one particular hole. If you look at the stock pressure plate for its mark, then flip it over and look at how the teeth are arranged, they go out of sync with the cap bolt mounting holes, so only one hole will align correctly with the pressure plate. Just match the after market pressure plate with the same hole based on how the gear teeth in the stock pressure plates marked hole is.
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Old Jan 3rd, 2012, 11:45 pm   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks Gilly,

I took it for a run and it seems to be ok. I think I have a tad amount of slippage under heavy acceleration which could be coming from the 2 attempts I had at taking off and have glazed up the disks. (I'm hoping not)!

Thanks for the reply.
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Old Jan 6th, 2012, 3:44 am   #4 (permalink)
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I have had my EVR on since new & had one fitted to my 999 . They are a right pain in the arse to set up initially but once done they are fantastic.

The instructions are rubbish

If its not engaging then i suggest you check the stack height. You may need to use some thicker original steels from your original clutch.
Also check the dished steels (they have a hole punched on one of the teeth) You should have at least 2 & the inner one the dot faces outwards & the outer one the dot faces inwards
Never have a dished steel as first or last plate

I do have a how to on the forum & if you get stuck give us a shout.

A fantastic product once its working
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Old Jan 6th, 2012, 7:31 am   #5 (permalink)
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I have had my EVR on since new & had one fitted to my 999 . They are a right pain in the arse to set up initially but once done they are fantastic.

The instructions are rubbish

If its not engaging then i suggest you check the stack height. You may need to use some thicker original steels from your original clutch.
Also check the dished steels (they have a hole punched on one of the teeth) You should have at least 2 & the inner one the dot faces outwards & the outer one the dot faces inwards
Never have a dished steel as first or last plate

I do have a how to on the forum & if you get stuck give us a shout.

A fantastic product once its working

Thanks Blackie,

I have it working now, although I am 99% sure I glazed the disks on the first and second attempt but it does seem to be improving. It wasn't so much as the EVR plates and basket that was the issue, it was getting the NGR billet drum to work properly. Once I re-installed the old drum we were off and racing, slight amount of slip due to the glazing under hard acceleration but I sanded the disks back with 600 grit sand paper to take the shine of them and it doe seem to be getting better. The boys from Motowheels got in touch with me today so I'll speak to them soon about some assistance with the NGR drum.

I am kicking myself I stuffed around for weeks and went with a 48 tooth STD dry clutch, I should of just gone with the EVR slipper!

Thanks again.
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Old Jan 6th, 2012, 9:04 am   #6 (permalink)
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Oh yes mate

The 48t EVR is indeed a beast and a half.

When i take my plates out i just gently rub them on the paving stones at the front of the house. That gets em nice & rough again

In the 3 years its been fitted i have not had to alter it at all. Its a stunning piece of engineering considering the hammer it gets
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Old Jan 9th, 2012, 5:44 pm   #7 (permalink)
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It looks like the EVR 48t clutch pack kit is about 1mm short than a factory kit. It seems that just enough to make the clutch slip. Swapping some plates out with a thicker plate or two will get the numbers up and make up the gap.
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Old Jan 9th, 2012, 6:35 pm   #8 (permalink)
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It looks like the EVR 48t clutch pack kit is about 1mm short than a factory kit. It seems that just enough to make the clutch slip. Swapping some plates out with a thicker plate or two will get the numbers up and make up the gap.
Thanks for the advice on the phone Matt, I have spoken to my bloke over here that sells the EVR clutches and he hasn't got any thicker plates to increase the stack height. Would you? and what would it cost me.

Again thanks for your time on the phone. It's greatly appreciated.

Cheers
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Old Jan 10th, 2012, 11:23 am   #9 (permalink)
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Why wouldn't EVR address this issue? Knowingly selling parts that don't work for the intended application?
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Old Jan 12th, 2012, 10:08 am   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Horseonly View Post
Thanks for the advice on the phone Matt, I have spoken to my bloke over here that sells the EVR clutches and he hasn't got any thicker plates to increase the stack height. Would you? and what would it cost me.

Again thanks for your time on the phone. It's greatly appreciated.

Cheers
You can mix & match & use your old steels which can be used on both baskets.
Then you have a good supply to use

Failing that just order a couple of thicker steels from the dealers. Only a few quid each
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