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Nov 8th, 2011, 7:51 pm
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#1 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Pisa, Tuscany, Italy
Posts: 53
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Zafm self mapping for bazzaz zfi on streetfighter
I would buy this self mapping system for my streetfighter and I have two questions: the zafm comes with one only lambda probe but we have 2 cylinders and two bungs on the exhaust, should I use the rear one?
If I keep the kit always installed and active, with the lambda probe inserted, can the sensor be damaged or can it get old and then not detect perfectly the air/fuel mixture? Is bettere remove it after map tuning?
Is there anyone who uses this zafm and can give me a feedback?
thanks
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Streetfighter S Black
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Nov 11th, 2011, 2:15 pm
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#2 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Jacksonville, FL, USA
Posts: 98
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Tune your bike with the ZAFM, then take it out and save it for later. They only have so many hrs of use before the sensor goes and your readings will get worse. They do sell replacement sensors though so its really up to you. You dont need it in once you get the bike running properly though so just plug it and store it until you mod something.
__________________
2010 Ducati SF S
2010 Triumph Speed Triple 15th Anv. Edition
2009 Triumph Street Triple R
2009 Yamaha R1
2009 Triumph Daytona 675 (sold)
2007.5 Aprilia Tuono 1000R (sold)
1997 Kawasaki ZX6 (Gone)
1993 Yamaha TZR Super 50 (Sold)
1984 Yamaha XT600
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Nov 12th, 2011, 7:21 pm
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#3 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 54
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I have one installed on my bike. I'm using the front cylinder after talking with the guys at Bazzaz. They developed their maps using the front cylinder.
Get the bike mapped where its running good and then pull the sensor if you want it to last a long time.
__________________
2010 StreetFighter S - 2009 Yamaha R1 - 2007 Yamaha R6
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Nov 13th, 2011, 3:37 pm
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#4 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Miami, Florida, USA
Posts: 158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saloonracer
Tune your bike with the ZAFM, then take it out and save it for later. They only have so many hrs of use before the sensor goes and your readings will get worse. They do sell replacement sensors though so its really up to you. You dont need it in once you get the bike running properly though so just plug it and store it until you mod something.
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This really bums me out!! Call me lazy but I thought i was done. Guess Ill have to work on getting her dialed in and go back to removing and installing.
weather has been really atypical though so hard to be sure if the two adjustments ive done are good enough.
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Nov 14th, 2011, 9:26 am
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#5 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Saint Louis Park, MN, US
Posts: 78
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saloonracer is right about sensors having a finite life, but those Bosch LSU 4.2 sensors are intended to last as long as the emissions certification.
A lot of cars come with them as OE.
The same problems can occur on a stock bike when the narrow-band sensors go bad.
On an another thread someone said that the manufacturer recommended doing a single fuel table. I simply don't understand how anyone who has ever looked at the AFRs of both cylinders can come to that conclusion.
The two cyls do not vary in the same direction (rich-lean) at the same point.
The main fuel table represents the torque curve of the front cylinder. The rear table (it's a trim table, but Tuneboy shows a real fuel table based on the combined) represents the torque curve of the rear.
The first thing that is changed on almost every motorcycle is the exhaust system. This changes the torque curve!
Even a little change in back pressure (slip-ons) changes the relationship between the front and the rear cylinders.
then, there can be a variation in injector performance
What this means is that you must tune both cylinders separately.
Once you've created a good fuel table for each cylinder, it's obvious that you can't leave it to auto-tune both cylinders simultaneously, and in reality, you shouldn't leave it in auto-tune anywhere. At certain points it can tune you right into the ditch. (reversion)
The reason everyone offers auto-tuning is because the others offer auto-tuning (the customers expect it.) Unfortunately, you need to be a tuner to discover that there are pitfalls and what they are.
Sorry to burst bubbles.
Doug
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Nov 14th, 2011, 11:41 am
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#6 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moperfserv
saloonracer is right about sensors having a finite life, but those Bosch LSU 4.2 sensors are intended to last as long as the emissions certification.
A lot of cars come with them as OE.
The same problems can occur on a stock bike when the narrow-band sensors go bad.
On an another thread someone said that the manufacturer recommended doing a single fuel table. I simply don't understand how anyone who has ever looked at the AFRs of both cylinders can come to that conclusion.
The two cyls do not vary in the same direction (rich-lean) at the same point.
The main fuel table represents the torque curve of the front cylinder. The rear table (it's a trim table, but Tuneboy shows a real fuel table based on the combined) represents the torque curve of the rear.
The first thing that is changed on almost every motorcycle is the exhaust system. This changes the torque curve!
Even a little change in back pressure (slip-ons) changes the relationship between the front and the rear cylinders.
then, there can be a variation in injector performance
What this means is that you must tune both cylinders separately.
Once you've created a good fuel table for each cylinder, it's obvious that you can't leave it to auto-tune both cylinders simultaneously, and in reality, you shouldn't leave it in auto-tune anywhere. At certain points it can tune you right into the ditch. (reversion)
The reason everyone offers auto-tuning is because the others offer auto-tuning (the customers expect it.) Unfortunately, you need to be a tuner to discover that there are pitfalls and what they are.
Sorry to burst bubbles.
Doug
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Finally, somebody gets it!! Some of the Japanese cruisers are the only models that have very similar fuel curves on a twin cylinder engine. All others we have tested, Guzzi, Aprilia, Ducati, BMW all need to have separate maps for each cylinder, NOT just a trim. This is why we offer an Auto tune system that comes with 2 sensors. Our unit will map each cylinder independently. If you don't you are simply leaving power on the table.
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Nov 14th, 2011, 12:16 pm
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#7 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Jacksonville, FL, USA
Posts: 98
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Agreed.
Mapping both cyl separately is the best and only best way to get this bike running perfectly. I have spent alot of time with the Bazzaz ZFI. Its great product and will fix any stumbling or flat spots, so much so that you cant feel any issues with the fueling - but the single fuel table to run two cyl is a miss. Not sure if it is on other motors but on this one it seems obvious. There is a way around it to a certain degree but will not be as accurate as mapping each cyl and having each cyl run on its own fueling table.
I have seen Bazzaz ZFI tune 4 cyl bikes perfectly. It just seems with the Ducati 1098 Testa engine, to get the most power - two maps are better than one.
One map < Averaged map < Individual Maps
To have a smooth running streetbike, Either will do the same for you.
Cheers
__________________
2010 Ducati SF S
2010 Triumph Speed Triple 15th Anv. Edition
2009 Triumph Street Triple R
2009 Yamaha R1
2009 Triumph Daytona 675 (sold)
2007.5 Aprilia Tuono 1000R (sold)
1997 Kawasaki ZX6 (Gone)
1993 Yamaha TZR Super 50 (Sold)
1984 Yamaha XT600
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Nov 14th, 2011, 12:20 pm
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#8 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Jacksonville, FL, USA
Posts: 98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DynojetResearch
Finally, somebody gets it!! Some of the Japanese cruisers are the only models that have very similar fuel curves on a twin cylinder engine. All others we have tested, Guzzi, Aprilia, Ducati, BMW all need to have separate maps for each cylinder, NOT just a trim. This is why we offer an Auto tune system that comes with 2 sensors. Our unit will map each cylinder independently. If you don't you are simply leaving power on the table.
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Wow, where did you come from? Never seen DynoJet around these threads. I must have missed something.....Welcome!
Cheers
__________________
2010 Ducati SF S
2010 Triumph Speed Triple 15th Anv. Edition
2009 Triumph Street Triple R
2009 Yamaha R1
2009 Triumph Daytona 675 (sold)
2007.5 Aprilia Tuono 1000R (sold)
1997 Kawasaki ZX6 (Gone)
1993 Yamaha TZR Super 50 (Sold)
1984 Yamaha XT600
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Nov 14th, 2011, 3:17 pm
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#9 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Dearborn, MI, United States
Posts: 2,531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DynojetResearch
Finally, somebody gets it!! Some of the Japanese cruisers are the only models that have very similar fuel curves on a twin cylinder engine. All others we have tested, Guzzi, Aprilia, Ducati, BMW all need to have separate maps for each cylinder, NOT just a trim. This is why we offer an Auto tune system that comes with 2 sensors. Our unit will map each cylinder independently. If you don't you are simply leaving power on the table.
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So, are you saying you now have a product that will eliminate the closed loop operation under 5000 rpm? Failure to do that is currently why nobody uses Power Commanders. How do you do that, with emulators to eliminate the stock lambda sensors?
__________________
'10 Streetfighter S "Sleipnir"
'09 Kaw Versys
'00 Kaw KLR650
'67 Triumph Bonneville TT Special
USN Vet.
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Nov 14th, 2011, 4:01 pm
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#10 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Pisa, Tuscany, Italy
Posts: 53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veckk
I have one installed on my bike. I'm using the front cylinder after talking with the guys at Bazzaz. They developed their maps using the front cylinder.
Get the bike mapped where its running good and then pull the sensor if you want it to last a long time.
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A Bazzaz technical said me exactly the opposite  so?
however I think it can be logical that the rear cylinder runs richer than the front because the rear get less air and more fuel helps it to get cold
Actually I think there is no way to do a good mixed map between front and rear cylinder with the zafm for now, what are the opinions from those who are using zafm? Does it works on the twins of the sf?
Does anybody know if bazzaz is going to outcoming with a new self tuning module with double lambda in this months? Or new products for 2012? In this case I think it will be better wait to buy
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