Liqui moly racing 4T 10w-60 - Ducati.ms

Ottoman · Dec 30th, 2009, 7:31 am

hey guys,

just want ur opinion on this oil..

after scrounging allover the island I had little luck finding oil locally for my S4R testa

so i've settled for this one

it's german, and they have a huge line of motorcycle specific products..
from chain lubes, to helmet cleaners, to bike cleaners u name it..

anyway..

i'm worried if 60 weight is too heavy?

i live in a hot country and have seen 110*C on my bike stuck in traffic..

in the winter is about 22*C and summer can hit 50*C (i wont be able to ride in that heat tho)

anyway what do u guys think of this oil generally?

here is a pic of the bottle:
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/mediendb.nsf/gfx2/1525.jpg/$file/1525.jpg

and here is the PDF spec sheet on it:

http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/mediendb.nsf/gfx2/1525%20Racing%20Synth%204T%20SAE%2010W-60_EN.pdf/$file/1525%20Racing%20Synth%204T%20SAE%2010W-60_EN.pdf

input appreciated...

galaxy · Dec 31st, 2009, 10:56 pm

F&$% YES 60 weight is too heavy. 50 weight is too heavy. Testastrettas call for a 10W40, which will work great in any outside temp condition. You need nothing else. Heavy oil only does a few of things for you...robs HP, increases temps, and circulates slower.

Ottoman · Jan 1st, 2010, 4:28 am

really? shit

temps wise.. the thermostat is the only thing keeping my engine warm at the moment..

only other thing I've found locally I motorex oil..

how much Heavier will the 60W be vs the 50W i've seen ppl using?

would I be better using an automotive 10W40? then this bike specific 10W60?

the guy at the shop confused me..

he made it sound like 10W40 and 10W60 are the same viscosity, only the 60 has a higher temp "cieling" or range of temps before it breaks down..

here's some AGIP thats ducati approved apparently running 10W60: http://www.motoworlduk.co.uk/product...ng4t10w60.html

galaxy · Jan 1st, 2010, 11:34 am

I would say since it's a dry clutch bike, you'd be better off using an auto 10W40 over a 60 weight anything, but that's not ideal. Tons of people will tell you auto oils are just fine in a dry clutch bike but I disagree. Still have the tranny sharing the same bath and auto oils are not designed for such. But it wont hurt anything.

Don't go local on your oil...mail order. I bet you mail order all kinds of stuff in life...why not oil?? Delivered right to your door!

That number on the oil (40, 60, etc) is the viscosity of the oil. There's an industry standard for the most part that an oils viscosity is measured at 100*C and indicated in centistokes (cSt). Thus, an oil will be a certain viscosity at that temp (or any given temp for that matter, just not measured at such) and a 60 weight will be substantially higher than a 40 weight...substantially. If your 'guy' gave you the impression they were the same, he's wrong or you misunderstood.

60 weight is still thicker than a 50 weight, but that's beside the point. A Testastretta is designed for and recommended for 10W40. If it's really hot, you could go with a XW50 and it wont hurt anything (it is listed as an alternate)...guys run that every day, but it's not ideal and unnecessary. Provides no increase in protection what-so-ever!!!

Car and engine builders are building stuff to run on thinner and thinner oils every day...why? A thinner oil circulates better, better on your motor during cold/first starts, less induced drag (which means more hp) and a thinner oil is more efficient at cooling the motor...which BTW is the primary purpose of the oil. Lubrication is a very close second place. Oil will carry away more heat from your motor than water will any day. Most cars today call for a 5W20, and most new Honda motorcycles run a 10W30...almost unheard of in the moto community. Amsoil even has a moto specific 10W30 out now because this is the direction things are headed. I bet you see a lot of newer motorcycles calling for thinner and thinner oils.

That advertisement you linked looks to be just that...that add means nothing.

motoracer8 · Jan 3rd, 2010, 6:39 pm

You are right on, on just about every thing you say in your post, motorcycle transmitions pose the biggest probblem for motor oil. If the VI improvers (polymers) are not up to the job they can shear fairly quickly and return to or very close to the base grade. One of the reasons synthetics work so well in motorcycles is base fluids are very stable and need very little help to stay in grade.

Water does absorb and relese heat much faster than oil, even light ones.

Ken G.

Yves_atlanta · Jan 10th, 2010, 5:52 pm

This is the exact oil for an MV Agusta 312R, not for a Ducati...

erikesp · Apr 14th, 2010, 10:27 am

Quote:

Originally Posted by galaxy

I would say since it's a dry clutch bike, you'd be better off using an auto 10W40 over a 60 weight anything, but that's not ideal. Tons of people will tell you auto oils are just fine in a dry clutch bike but I disagree. Still have the tranny sharing the same bath and auto oils are not designed for such. But it wont hurt anything.

60 weight is still thicker than a 50 weight, but that's beside the point. A Testastretta is designed for and recommended for 10W40. If it's really hot, you could go with a XW50 and it wont hurt anything (it is listed as an alternate)...guys run that every day, but it's not ideal and unnecessary. Provides no increase in protection what-so-ever!!!

Wait, you contradict yourself. You say you are better off using auto oil than 60W but you dissagree that they are fine for dry clutch bikes? Which is it? How is a 50 or 60 viscosity offer " no increase in protection what-so-ever". The higher viscosities handle heat better. Where are you getting this info?

MultiDoc · Apr 14th, 2010, 1:03 pm

I have been using AGIP's full synthetic 10W-60 for a couple of years. Great oil as far as i can tell and the engine seems to like it. My bike has "seen" the track for 20k kilometers so far (both racing and track-days) and performs flawlessly.

Just my personal experience and opinion

desmo_pt · May 6th, 2010, 9:20 am

Ducati advices 20w-60 for the RS bikes....

I think that is for the added shear protection that a heavier oil has.

galaxy · May 29th, 2010, 4:45 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by erikesp

Wait, you contradict yourself. You say you are better off using auto oil than 60W but you dissagree that they are fine for dry clutch bikes? Which is it? How is a 50 or 60 viscosity offer " no increase in protection what-so-ever". The higher viscosities handle heat better. Where are you getting this info?

Well, this is late I know, sorry. Didn't mean to sound like I was contradicting myself, because I'm not. I meant to say if I had to choose between an auto oil and a 60W oil, I'd take the auto oil. It's the lesser of two evils between those two choices. But yes, I still stand that auto oils are not "ideal" for motorcycles. Even on a dry clutch bike where the clutch is not in the oil, auto oils are not made to handle the shear actions and the deposits of having the tranny in the same oil bath like a moto specific oil.

Running a 60W oil in a motor not designed for that weight does not offer any increased protection, yes. I believe that is what I said and it is correct. If you're talking about how an oil breaks down, heavier viscosity oils don't handle heat better, they may handle a little differently based on the chemistry, but better is not the right word. Thinner oils offer better heat protection because they absorb heat faster from the surrounding metal surfaces and dissipate that heat faster than a heavier oil.

Running an oil that heavy in a motor calling for a 40 weight (i.e. the Testastretta) will only add to any heat issues. It doesn't cool as well as described above, and there's the issue of pumping and circulation which will generate its own portion of heat through drag and pumping pressure increase. (temperature increases proportionally with pressure) You're trying to pump a thicker oil through passages, galleys, and bearing races not intended for that weight of oil.