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Dec 5th, 2006, 3:27 pm
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#1 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Arlington, MA, USA
Posts: 53
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Painting plastics
Hi everyone,
I'm thinking of painting some track plastics I have lying around. They are OEMs so I would like to do an OK job. Right now they seem to be covered with a thick layer of black primer.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I figure sand it down, sand it down some more, wet sand etc and paint. But I have no idea where to start with the painting. Type, think vs thin layers, is it easy to clear coat over decals etc.
I know kind of general question but if anyone has a lot of experience maybe I can just PM with you.
Thanks a lot,
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Dec 5th, 2006, 3:41 pm
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#2 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Olympia, Washington, USA
Posts: 2,630
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I wouldn't sand through the primer but you should take a small part to an auto paint supplier to play it safe. Clear coats, good ones anyway, are two part catalysts, one being the hardener. So no, it usually isn't easy sanding.
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1978 BMW R100/7
2001 Ducati ST4
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Dec 5th, 2006, 4:17 pm
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#3 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Shamong, Nj, USA
Posts: 92
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paint application
When applying base color several thin coats are better.Allow 5-10 minutes between coats, ensure even color.Let dry per manufacturer directions then wet sand.Apply more color if needed. Clear coat in same manner. Allow clear to dry for about 5 days before wet sanding,polishing and finally apply a good wax. This has given me good looking results even with rattle can paint.
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Dec 5th, 2006, 4:25 pm
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#4 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Philadelphia, PA,
Posts: 1,075
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It all depends on what type of paint was on there before. Knock down the existing paint with 600 grit, body work it if it needs it then block sand/primer and paint.
Track plastics flex so you'll need to use a urethane (sp) additive to give it flex. You'll need a urethane primer as well. Using primer is important as if the underlying paint/bodywork is not compatible with the paint you're using, it will bubble up, haze or craze.
You'll need to sand it if it has cracks in the paint etc. Wet/dry sanding doesn't matter, what matters is that you block sand it so you can knock down all the high spots and create one uniform smooth surface.
If this is for the track, I wouldn't bother. Just spray it with a good flexible rattle can maybe Krylon Fusion will work (let us know  ). Use a lighter color to hide the imprefections, going to a dark color will bring out ALL the waves esp if it is gloss black.
Doing it right takes alot of time and money and there's a good chance you'll crash so...you don't want to see all that hard work and money being scraped up on the track.
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998 Monoposto - The final form of a legend
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Dec 5th, 2006, 6:05 pm
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#5 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Arlington, MA, USA
Posts: 53
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by level7
If this is for the track, I wouldn't bother. Just spray it with a good flexible rattle can maybe Krylon Fusion will work (let us know  ). Use a lighter color to hide the imprefections, going to a dark color will bring out ALL the waves esp if it is gloss black.
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Thanks for posts everyone.
So with the Krylon Fusion would you still clear coat or just skip it?
Also, the plastics are for the track but at the same time they are decent OEMs (other than paint) so I was thinking I might want a decent job just in case I sell them. Maybe just a waste of time although I thought it might be interesting to try.
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Dec 5th, 2006, 6:55 pm
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#6 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Severn, Maryland, USA
Posts: 276
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by guydingdave
Also, the plastics are for the track but at the same time they are decent OEMs (other than paint) so I was thinking I might want a decent job just in case I sell them.
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If I were you, I would put them on e-bay separately. If they are in great shape, except for paint, you might get near $500 for 'em. Then go and buy a set of Sharkskinz for $400 which are lighter and made to take the abuse of the track. Just a thought. (Not sure what bike you have....I was thinking I was in the SuperSport section and assumed it was a carbed bike. Disregard the prices given then.  )
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Last edited by Dutch900; Dec 5th, 2006 at 8:19 pm.
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Dec 5th, 2006, 7:35 pm
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: L.A., CA, USA
Posts: 700
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by guydingdave
Thanks for posts everyone.
So with the Krylon Fusion would you still clear coat or just skip it?
Also, the plastics are for the track but at the same time they are decent OEMs (other than paint) so I was thinking I might want a decent job just in case I sell them. Maybe just a waste of time although I thought it might be interesting to try.
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I had a tough time with this paint. Can says, "recoat within 24hrs or after 7 days" neither of which was true, perhaps for one thin coat. 12 hrs to 10 days maybe, if you're applying several coats. Best to get it all on quickly. You can clear coat or use regular Krylon on top (for number boards stripes etc) so long as you do it all in one day. After that it will crinkle not matter how long you wait. If I redo it mine I might try this. Spray regular Banner Red first, then one coat of Cherry Red on top. Gets really close to Ducati red (better than Fusion) plus you can recoat or clearcoat anytime.
First 2 pics are clear coated fusion. third pic is uncearcoated. Not much difference in the end.
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Dec 5th, 2006, 10:06 pm
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#8 (permalink)
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Lifetime Premium
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Albany, New York, USA
Posts: 564
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any basecoat/spray paint color will flex more than enough for any application. It's the primer that cracks underneath or the clear on top to some degree depending on the clear....just for future reference.
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-2000 748: ALMOST DONE!!! FINALLY!
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-1976 Honda CB750K: Cafe Racer project (on hold until the Duc is done!)
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Dec 6th, 2006, 9:44 am
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#9 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Philadelphia, PA,
Posts: 1,075
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Dutch900
If I were you, I would put them on e-bay separately. If they are in great shape, except for paint, you might get near $500 for 'em. Then go and buy a set of Sharkskinz for $400 which are lighter and made to take the abuse of the track. Just a thought. (Not sure what bike you have....I was thinking I was in the SuperSport section and assumed it was a carbed bike. Disregard the prices given then.  )
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+1 I would personally do this if the plastics are in fact good shape. But that would not release you from painting the sharkskinz  .
__________________
998 Monoposto - The final form of a legend
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Dec 6th, 2006, 4:28 pm
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#10 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Arlington, VA, USA
Posts: 862
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Dutch900
If I were you, I would put them on e-bay separately. If they are in great shape, except for paint, you might get near $500 for 'em. Then go and buy a set of Sharkskinz for $400 which are lighter and made to take the abuse of the track. Just a thought. (Not sure what bike you have....I was thinking I was in the SuperSport section and assumed it was a carbed bike. Disregard the prices given then.  )
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+1 == exactly, you don't want OEM for the track,they're heavy and break. Sell them (they are worth alot) and get a set of Sharkskinz.
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